30 January, 2014
You can spend an interesting day wandering around on foot in the north of the city and Wat Phnom is as a good a place to start as any. This small yet popular temple is perched on the highest point of the city, which isn't saying much when it weighs in at just twenty seven metres tall, but it is a pretty little spot.
It has a circular park around its base which makes for a nice stroll, where you might spot a few monkeys foraging around for leftover offerings, especially bananas. There's a token $1 charge for foreigners to climb the steps and visit the temple, and where you'll be greeted by local children trying to make a fast buck- either by straight out begging or by selling small birds to release at the top (apparently for good luck.) We visited early in the morning, which seems to be a good time. There's a seedy crowd that hang out at the park, and its advised to be careful there, especially if you're on your own - we saw one woman who had just had her bag stolen.
From here you can walk east towards the Tonle Sap river along a nice tree lined boulevard. You'll pass by a local market which is worth paying a visit, offering everything from fresh fruit and vegetables, to clothes and household nick knacks. If you're here in the evening, there is also a night market close by at the river's edge. Again, we definitely noticed that this part of town is far less touristy, and you will see and be approached by more beggars, stumble over piles of rubbish on the pavements, and see whole families living rough out on the streets. It may not be every tourist's cup of tea, but it does make you realise how tough life is in a developing country. If you're down on your luck, there really is no one to help you.
From the market you practically land on the riverside, where you can check out any boat trips you fancy from the boat ramps, or marvel at the floating palaces that ship the wealthy in five star luxury between here and Vietnam. We headed south for a kilometre before cutting back inland to find the central market, or Phsar Thmei.
The market is housed in an impressive huge yellow domed building, dating back to the Art Deco days of the French empire and built in 1935. After Independence in 1952, the building was basically left to rot. Thankfully the French came back in to restore it to its former glory and its been looking pristine since 2011. Even if you hate shopping, its definitely still worth exploring to marvel at the building alone. if you like shopping, you'll be happy to lose yourself for a few hours in its four indoor wings, and outside stalls. Unlike the sweltering Russian Market in the south of the city, central market is nice and cool, so a good place to visit during the middle of the day.
If you still have some energy left and architecture is your thing, you're not far from clusters of French colonial buildings dotted around the north, including the fine Railway Station. Sadly it's looking a little depressed that its no longer in use for passenger trains, just freight, but maybe those French people will give them a helping hand to get it started again. Here's hoping! If you're all out of energy then head north for lunch off the bottom of the Russian Boulevard
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